Sunday, March 28, 2010

Sigiriya



The earliest evidence of human habitation at Sigiriya was found from the Aligala rock shelter to the east of Sigiriya rock, indicating that the area was occupied nearly five thousand years ago during the mesolithic period. Buddhist monastic settlements were established in the western and northern slopes of the boulder-strewn hills surrounding the Sigiriya rock, during the third century B.C. Several rock shelters or caves had been created during this period. These shelters were made under large boulders, with carved drip ledges around the cave mouths. Rock inscriptions are carved near the drip ledges on many of the shelters, recording the donation of the shelters to the Buddhist monastic order as residences. These have been made within the period between the third century B.C and the first century A.D. In 477 A.D, prince Kasyapa seized the throne from King Dhatusena, following a coup assisted by Migara, the king’s nephew and army commander.

Kasyapa, the king’s son by a non-royal consort, usurped the rightful heir, Moggallana, who fled to South India. Fearing an attack from Moggallana, Kasyapa moved the capital and his residence from the traditional capital of Anuradhapura to the more secure Sigiriya. During King Kasyapa’s reign from 477 to 495 A.D, Sigiriya was developed into a complex city and fortress. Most of the elaborate constructions on the rock summit and around it, including defensive structures, palaces and gardens, date back to this period. Kasyapa was defeated in 495 A.D by Moggallana, who moved the capital again to Anuradhapura.


Sigiriya was then turned back into a Buddhist monastery, which lasted until the thirteenth or fourteenth century. After this period, no records are found on Sigirya until the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, when it was used as an outpost of the Kingdom of Kandy. When the kingdom ended, it was abandoned again. In 1831 Major Jonathan Forbes of the 78th Highlanders of the British army while returning on horseback from a trip to Pollonnuruwa came across the “bush covered summit of Sigiriya".Sigiriya came to the attention of antiquarians and, later, archaeologists. Archaeological work at Sigiriya began on a small scale in the 1890s. H.C.P Bell was the first archaeologist to conduct extensive research on Sigiriya. The Cultural Triangle Project, launched by the Government of Sri Lanka, focused its attention on Sigiriya in 1982. Archaeological work began on the entire city for the first time under this project

Sigiriya – Rising above Expectations

Literally translating to “Lion’s Rock,” Sigiriya is one of the most famous historical, geological and cultural sites in the whole of Sri Lanka. Walk into a Sri Lankan gift shop or post office and the chances are you’ll see enough postcards of the giant stone structure to resurrect a giant bamboo plant if you had such a power. Needless to say Sigiriya is a landmark of Sri Lankan civilization, and was once a citadel for Kings long gone. Its significance in the island’s culture has made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of seven in Sri Lanka.

Geography

Sigiriya is situated in the Matale District in the Central Province of Sir Lanka and is the main focus of a range of ancient and beautiful structures that have been carved into or built onto the surrounding landscape. It is also within the so-called cultural triangle, which contains 5 of the 7 World Heritage Sites in the country.

The rock itself is what remains of a prehistoric volcano (the fact that Sri Lanka does not lie on or near a plate margin is testament to how long ago the rock was formed, as the island must have been on a different location on the earth’s surface for this to occur). Sigiriya is what remains of a volcano that was eroded over time to leave its hardened magma core, and it towers 370 metres in the air, with sheer drops on all sides that give the rock its unique shape.

History

Some say that Sigiriya was inhabited by humans as far back as the Mesolithic period five thousands years ago. Rock shelters at the foot of Sigiriya were seen to serve as Buddhist monastic settlements from the 3rd century BC onwards, as inscriptions on the rock walls record the donation of these shelters to the Buddhist monastic order.

When Prince Kasyapa seized the throne from King Dhatusena in 447 AD and usurped the rightful heir, he moved the capital of the Kingdom and thus the royal seat from Anurhadapura to Sigiriya, as he believed the rock would serve as a stronger fortress against his enemies. It was during his rule that Sigiriya was developed into a city of its own, with many of the structures and monuments that one can see there today.

Once Kasyapa was overthrown in 495 AD by the once rightful heir, Mogallana, the capital and seat of the throne were moved back to Anurhadapura and Sigiriya was returned to the Buddhist monastic order for the next few centuries. In the 1500s Sigiriya became a major centre in the Kingdom of Kandy, but was abandoned again after a few centuries.

The Site and Surroundings

Sigiriya itself once had a palace at its flat summit that was constructed by King Kasyapa during his reign. Today one can climb the steps up to the top of the giant rock and see the base of the castle. Not far from the top you will come across the Lion Gate, a majestic entrance to the remaining few steps in the shape of a lion’s two front paws. Further down you will see the mirror wall, which contains ancient frescoes painted in the traditional style. At the base the rock shelters remain for all to see.

Surrounding Sigiriya is an expanse of ancient gardens, some of the oldest planned gardens in the world. These were built either as water gardens, cave and boulder gardens or terraced gardens, and their unique characteristics can still be seen today. Reservoirs can also be found in close proximity to the rock, and a moat that surrounds Sigiriya is a beautiful place to take a stroll by, especially during dawn or dusk when the sky above the flat plains and the water of the moat are illuminated brilliantly by the sun’s rays.

One can find a range of hotels and resorts to lodge at during a stay in Sigiriya. A favourite among visitors is the Sigiriya Village Hotel not far from the rock. Guided tours and other services and facilities are also available. Contact your local travel agent for further details.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

The Story of Sigiriya

Nadhira Lawrence

The following story of Kasyapa as obtained from the documents of Ananda-Sthavira, translated by Senarath Paranavitana, differs from the story that many learned as school children; that King Datusena had been plastered alive to a wall by his son Kasyapa who later died in battle facing his brother Moggallana. Perhaps this is the story accepted until later documents and literary works suggested otherwise.
King Kasyapa was the man who dared to hold the dream of his father of building a palace in the sky, despite the many obstacles he faced. Kasyapa was unfortunately called a parricide, owing to the earlier legend and later by his famed epithet 'God-King'.

The birth of a palace in the sky
King Datusena's reign saw 15 years of peace and prosperity in the land. He built the greatest tank in the ancient city of Anuradhapura, Kalaveva, which he considered as all the wealth he ever possessed. King Datusena now wanted to be the 'Bodhirajaya' a title which the monarchs of Sri Lanka had held as protectors of Buddhism in Asia. How- ever, King Sri Kundya of Java had assumed this title and stubbornly held on to it even after Datusena sent word to him saying that it was illegal for another ruler other than a Sri Lankan to hold this title.

Disappointed, Datusena sought the advice of the Abbot of the Mahaviharaya, head of the 'Theravada' sect of Buddhism, who advised the king to practise the 'dasarajadharma' (ten royal virtues) which would enable him to acquire the status of a 'Chakravarti', which was higher than a Bodhirajaya. Datusena, being quite human was unable to practise it and found himself in a state of great mental distress, when he came into contact with a 'Maga Brahmana' or Magian Priest of Persian origin, a Christian who had come to the Royal Palace.

This priest was to play a very in- fluential role both in Datusena's and Kasyapa's lives. Datusena confided in this priest and he counselled the king saying that it was impossible for a human being to practise the ten royal virtues and that even the ancient Persian Kings had tried and failed. There- after, they had tried to obtain imperial status by observing the ritual of 'Parvataraja' or Mountain King. To achieve this, the king had to reside in a palace built on the summit of a rock and rule from there.

The Maga Brahmana suggested that funds for building such a palace could be obtained if all the people in the kingdom gave a gift according to their ability to the king on his birthday as a token of their allegiance. They calculated that if they do so for seven consecutive years they could obtain the funds needed for building the palace. Meanwhile, the intrigues within the palace of Datusena began to grow. Samgha his second queen desired the throne for her son Moggallana whereas Kasyapa too wanted the same. Abroad too, the acts of fate began to intrude upon the rule of Datusena. Simhavarman, Datusena's brother-in-law assumes the title of 'Parvataraja' in India and declares war on Datusena. He sends Datusena's sister's husband, Migara as general of the army to invade Sri Lanka. Simhavarman had purposely sent him at the head of a small army so he may be destroyed because he resented Migara and his wife converting to Christianity.

In the same way Datusena had decided that the only way to stop Kasyapa making a claim to the throne would be to have him destroyed because he had already decided to give the throne to Moggallana. Datusena sent Kasyapa to war against General Migara at the head of a small army. Kasyapa realized that his father wanted him dead and he made a pact with General Migara to stage a mock battle and to have Migara and his army surrender to him. Migara gave his allegiance to Datusena and promised to serve him.

The rivalry between the two brothers grew, when after this battle, Kasyapa claimed the title of 'Yuvaraja'. Datusena made no commitment and Kasyapa assumed that the title will be given to Moggallana and decided to leave Sri Lanka. In despair, he went to see his mother for one last time and told her that he'd rather live in exile than be subservient to his younger brother. He had worshipped at her feet and had sobbed saying, "This may be the last sight that I may have of my mother." She too had sobbed and blessed him saying "May thy paths be propitious."

Kasyapa was informed shortly by General Migara that Datusena had brought a charge of treason against him because he had reportedly conspired with Simhavarman of India. This, in fact, was a false piece of information deliberately given to mislead Kasyapa and make him flee the country so that the people can confirm that if he fled then he must indeed be guilty of treason. Kasyapa fled to Madras and sought refuge with his uncle Silatisyabodhi. After seven months he gathered an army and prepared to invade Sri Lanka. He landed at Chilaw and proceeded to the Kurunegala District where he set up camp near the village of Sri-Pura. Datusena ordered his troops to set up camp in the village itself, that is in the rear of Kasyapa's army, and thus he forfeited the claim to immunity when setting up camp because he was doing it at the rear of Kasyapa's army instead of in front. Datusena's army was thus attacked while they were setting up camp and they were badly defeated. Kasyapa had no idea that it was his father who was at the head of the army. He was under the misconception that it was Moggallana. Datusena not wanting to see the outcome of this battle, cut off his head with his own sword.

Thus Datusena's reign came to a tragic end, indirectly caused by his first born. He died without the impe- rial title of 'Parvataraja'. Kasyapa, stricken, paid last respects to his father and ordered that a stupa be built at the site where he was cremated.

Kasyapa takes over the sovereignty
After this battle Kasyapa marched to Anuradhapura and took over the reins of power without any opposition. He magnanimously offered friendship and the title of Regent to Moggallana who turned it down and fled abroad with his mother. Kasyapa tried to intercept them but he was too late. Returning from Batticaloa, he camped for the night at Habarana. Rising at dawn he had seen in the southern direction a solitary mass of rock looming high over the horizon. He had inquired about this rock and was told that it was called Aksa-paravata and that his father had begun to build a palace on its summit. He had climbed the rock from the northern side with a few others and observing the outline of the construction had said that it was too large and that it would be difficult to remain at the summit right throughout the year and ordered a small edifice to be built there. Kasyapa employed a Sinhalese architect named Sena Lal to execute his designs for Sigiri.

Raising funds for building Sigiriya
On the advice of the Maga Brahmana, Kasyapa issued and regulated a gold coinage. For this to be accepted by overseas merchants he was told to proclaim himself as 'Kuvera' or God of Wealth. Further- more, if the merchants were to accept him as Kuvera, he had to reside and administer his kingdom from a palace on the summit of a rock. Though the Abbot of the Abhayagiri Viharaya had accepted his new imperial status, the Abbot of the Mahaviharaya who was not consulted by Kasyapa before embarking on this new venture, chastised him saying, "Kuvera was the chief of the 'Yakksa' or demons and it would take a long time for a Yakksa to acquire human status again." Proclaiming himself Kuvera, Kasyapa earned the animosity not only of the Mahaviharaya but also of other overseas rulers.

Kasyapa also established free ports to attract more merchants to the ports of Sri Lanka. By this, other trading nations too suffered. Ship chose to sail to Suvarnapura (Palewbang) from India, even after the Maharaja too issued a gold coinage. Angered by the loss of trade for his nation, he summoned Kasyapa's brother Moggallana and told him that he would sponsor an army to fight his brother if he promised, in the event he succeeded to defeat Kasyapa to discontinue the use of a gold coinage and abandon Sigiri and rule once more from Anuradhapura. Moggallana agreed to do this.

An ancient description of Sigiri
An ancient Sinhalese guide book called the 'Sihigiri Vihara' found in the library of the Maharaja at Suvarnapura describes this rock and its palace in great detail. It describes the edifice constructed at the summit to have been made only for the use of a couple. No one was allowed to climb there other than King Kasyapa and his Queen. This edifice is described as a mansion with several landscaped gardens and a beautiful pond called Dharani with aquatic flowers. It was always full of water even in the dry season as a mechanism conducted water there.

It also gives a wonderful description of the lion figure. The forepart of a lion had been there but now only the massive paws exist. The rock above the lion figure had painted images of Kasyapa and his father. The plateau in front of the lion figure was known as the plateau of Red Arsenic.

This guide book also mentions the gallery and its protective mirror wall whose shining surface was obtained by the use of some mineral which only Sri Lanka possessed at that time.

Above the gallery were the beautiful frescos or 'Sigiri Apsaras' painted in the form of cloud damsels and Lightning Princesses.

The western and southern slopes were divided into terraces with dwelling places for the maids, members of the body-guard and concubines of Kasyapa, supposedly 500. On the western slope there had been two flights of stairs to climb the Sigiri rock, one which passed a cave which was believed to have been a shrine for the goddess Abhrasthita (Aphrodite). A figurine had been discovered there in the time of King Parakramabahu.

There had also been a theatre with seats carved on to the rock. Tradition says that many ancient Sinhalese plays were first performed here during Kasyapa's reign.

A cave below a boulder of stone which has the appearance of the hood of a cobra, had the paintings of Kas-yapa's biography which were eventually erased by his brother Moggallana.

There had also been fountains for the use of the harem. According to legend, Kasyapa used to watch them bathing from his mansion. There had also been a pavilion where these damsels used to leave their clothes before bathing and sometimes dried themselves there naked.

Ananda-Sthavira in his essay 'The two sons of Datusena' says that "King Kasyapa brought honour to the Sinhala Kingdom. Though the mercantile undertakings initiated by King Kasyspa were discontinued by King Maudgalyana, they were again started and continued by Sinhala Kings after King Maudgalyana. Vast wealth accrued to the Sinhala Kingdom through these mercantile undertakings."

Kasyapa also renovated the ancient monastery named Isirimana (sometimes called Vessagiri) and bequeathed it to the Mahaviharaya, even though he himself was an adherent of the Mahayana doctrines. The Mahavihara was endlessly opposed to Kasyapa not only because he had proclaimed himself as Kuvera but also because he followed the 'Mahayana' sect and not the 'Theravada' sect.

The role of Moggallana in King Kasyapa's death
The son of the Maga Brahmana and Kasyapa fell out and after the death of his father, he left the palace and went abroad. There he conspired with Kasyapa's brother Moggallana. The Maga Brahmana (Jr) obtained a promise from Moggallana that if he ever assassinated Kasyapa, then he must convert to Christianity. He returned to Sigiriya and told General Migara about Moggallana's promise. He then told Migara that his sister, the wife of Kasyapa must be the one to kill him. Migara's sister agreed to kill Kasyapa if she was assured of never being accused of his murder.

She had then persuaded Kasyapa to climb to the summit where they were to spend the night alone together. In the night the king's attendants were summoned by her and was told that the king was ill. They carried Kasyapa down to the plateau of Red Arsenic where the physician proclaimed him dead. The queen may have poisoned him.

Ananda-Sthavira in his narrative says that "There was a great commotion at the city of Simhagiri on the death of King Kasyapa." Kasyapa passed away after 18 years on the throne, in the palace in the sky that he had built. In his book of verse titled "The Sigiriyan King" (1973) V. Ariyaratnam makes the following to be the dying words of the God-King Kasyapa.

"Oh Sigiri, my sanctuary in the sky."
After the king's death the commander-in-chief of the garrison at Sigiri, General Sulaksmana, installed the son of Kasyapa, Datusena, on the throne and administered his kingdom in his name. Eventually this General was defeated in battle by Moggallana. He died like Kasyapa's father by beheading himself. Moggallana seized Sigiri and abandoned it as the capital. He later administered the kingdom from Anuradhapura, as in keeping with the promise made to the Maharaja of Suvarnapura. Moggallana later married Kasyapa's widow. Kasyapa's son fled to India, where he died in exile.

The tales surrounding King Kasyapa have been passed from generation to generation and still have the power to instill respect and admiration. Perhaps this is why Sigiriya is such a major tourist attraction right throughout the year. If you ever climb Sigiriya you will definitely see at least one young mother cuddling an infant or a toddler to her and scaling the steep climb to the top. Maybe these young mothers hope to instill the essence of Kasyapa into the lives of their young children by showing them the greatest monument to his memory the remnants of his palace in the sky.


Monday, March 15, 2010

Kasyapa, the master builder

Sigiriya comes dramatically, if tragically, into the political history of Sri Lanka in the last quarter of the fifth century during the reign of King Dhatusena I (459-477 A.D.), who ruled from the ancient capital at Anuradhapura. A palace coup by Prince Kasyapa, the king’s son by a non-royal consort, and Migara, the king’s nephew and army commander, led ultimate to the seizure of the throne and the subsequent execution of Dhatusena, Kasyapa, much reviled for his patricide, established a new capital at Sigiriya, while the crown prince, his half-brother Moggallana, went into exile in India, Kasyapa I (477-495 A.D.) and his master-builders gave the site its present name, ‘ Sinha-giri’ or ‘ Lion- Mountain’, and were responsible for most of the structures and the complex plan that we see today. This brief Kasyapan phase was the golden age of Sigiriya.

The post-kasyapan phase when Sigiriya was turned back into a Buddhist monastery, seem to have lasted until the thirteenth or fourteenth century. Sigiriya then disappears for a time from the history of Sri Lanka until, in the sixteenth and centuries, it appears again as a distant outpost and military center of the kingdom of Kandy. In the mid-nineteenth century antiquarians begin to take an interest in the site, followed some decades later by archaeologists, who have now been working there for nearly 100 years, since the 1890s.

The Cultural Triangle project began its work at Sigiriya in 1982 and has focused attention not only on the best-known and most striking aspects of Sigiriya: the royal complex of rock, palace, gardens and fortifications of the ‘western precinct’, but also on the entire city and its rural hinterland.

Location Sigiriya

Sigiriya sanctuary is situated in the District of Matale in the Central province 183 km. From Colombo.

The area also has an extremely high tourism potential on account of its location in the middle of the country, famous cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka which already draws millions of local and thousands of foreign tourists.

In Sri Lanka National parks are the only protected area which permit tourism. High class Hotel complexes already exists along the sanctuary boundary.

Minneriya Gritale Nature reserve extends in to Polonnaruwa and Matale Districts falling within North Central and Central Province Low Country Dry, Zone of Sri Lanka. These reserve extends to the Sigiriya and Gritale it is largest Nature reserve of Sri Lanka. These reserve was first declared a sanctuary under the Flora and Fauna protection ordinance in 1938. Sigiriya was declared a sanctuary in 26.01.1990. Its Extent is 5.099.2 Hectares. Minneriya Gritale Nature Reserve is important habitat for the wild elephants population in Sri Lanka Elephants Migrate from Habarana, Sigiriya Elephant population in between 150-200 in the area.

Sigiriya is part of a seasonal range of Elephant and accordingly their numbers fluctuate periodically the damage is released not so much to the number of Elephants but to the presence of bulls some the year round Along with the damage to crops. There is damage to other properties, injuries to human and Elephant and loss if human life occasionally and deaths of Elephant due to gunshot wounds.

Sigiriya the Rock

The most significant feature of the Rock would have been the Lion staircase leading to the palace garden on the summit.Lion staircase leading to the palace garden on the summit of Sigiriya Rock.Based on the ideas described in some of the graffiti, this Lion staircase could be visualised as a gigantic figure towering majestically against the granite cliff, facing north, bright coloured, and awe-inspiring. Through the open mouth of the Lion had led the covered staircase built of bricks and timber and a tiled roof. All that remains now are the two colossal paws and a mass of brick masonry that surround the ancient limestone steps and the cuts and groves on the rock face give an idea of the size and shape of the lion figure.

Though traces of plaster and pigments occur all over this area, there are only two pockets of paintings surviving in the depressions of the rock face, about a 100 meters above the ground level. These paintings represent the earliest surviving examples of a Sri Lanka school of classical realism, already fully evolved by the 5th century, when these paintings had been made. Earlier the Sigiri style had been considered as belonging to the Central Indian school of Ajanta, but later considered as specifically different from the Ajanta paintings. The ladies depicted in the paintings have been variously identified as Apsaras (heavenly maidens), as ladies of Kasyapa’s court and as Lightening Princess and Cloud Damsels.There are also remains of paintings in some of the caves at the foot of the rock. Of special significance is the painting on the roof of the Cobra Hood Cave. The cave with its unique shape dates from the pre-christian era. The painting combines geometrical shapes and motifs with a free and complex rendering of characteristic volute or whorl motifs. It is nothing less than a masterpiece of expressionist painting